We drove out of Denham, having purchased a few food supplies first. We called into Shell Beach which is located on the road back towards the highway. This is an amazing white beach made purely of tiny sea shells (Fragum cockles). The shells extend 120km along the coastline and are thought to be up to 4,000 years old. Compacted shell was once quarried for building blocks.
Leaving Shell Beach we then called into the Hamelin Pool and the Shell
block Quarry. Hamelin Pool is one of only two places in the world with
living examples of stromatolites. The dome-shaped structures are formed
by tiny, single-celled organisms called cyanobacteria that can tolerate
the highly saline waters of Hamelin Pool. Some of the structures are
about 2,000 years old and if damaged or disturbed can take many hundreds
of years to recover, if they recover at all.
We were finally back onto the highway and a new stretch of road to us.
We stopped at a free campsite that was situated on top of a plateau in
the middle of nowhere and had our lunch. Much further down the highway
and after about 9kms of dirt, we called into two free camps, one called
New Beach and the other Bush Beach. We decided that Bush Beach was the
better spot and set up camp. We had to be very careful where we set up
as it would be easy to wake up and find ourselves in sea water with the
king tides that arrive here. We were advised by other long-term and
local campers that there weren't any king tides expected during the next
short period. The water is very shallow for a long distance but sand
whiting frequent the area and I managed to catch three during the
afternoon. The sunsets here can be spectacular. A fellow camper was
taking photos of the sunset in the afternoon. He makes and sells
calendars and had just finished a photography camp with a well-known
photographer (Ken Duncan I think he said) and was on his way home. He
took a photo of me fishing with the sunset in the background and was
kind enough to email it to me.
On Wednesday we rose late and after brekky we re-rigged our rods
properly for whiting fishing. Rick had yesterdays catch of whiting for
breakfast. After brekky I caught two fish and Rick caught one. Later a
cool breeze came in so we went for a long walk on the beach. We were
closing up things for the night when 'The Wrecker' shut the tailgate of
the vehicle and snapped his nicely re-rigged rod in half. Fortunately,
we have two rods each.
The next morning we slept in
again and then drove in to have a look at Carnarvon. There was not a
whole lot to look at but we decided to walk the one-mile jetty ($4.50
for the privilege). A good part of the jetty is over land first and
then it heads out over very shallow water for a long way. It is in very
poor condition, with holes in it almost big enough for a child to fall
through. Some of the planks were only fixed on one end and were almost
rotted through. We discovered that you can't walk right to the end as
it has had a fire on it and so it was closed off. Just in front of the
closed off area was a local guy fishing ... dropping his line down
between the planks. He had three nice sized fish and he assured us he
could pull them up through the gaps. He liked to fish like this as the
fish tend to hide below the jetty in the shadows, and next to the
pilons. He said that once he caught a huge Mulloway and just had to cut
the line as it was way too big to get through the gap. He referred to
Mulloway as 'rubbish' fish as there are so many of them. We left him
and his little dog to his fishing and walked back. On the walk back,
yours truly managed to trip on one of the many rough planks and fall
face down. Luckily I only received some bad bruising on my knee and
several nasty splinters.
Friday was a lovely day and after a short time of unsuccessful
fishing we headed in Carnarvon again, clicking over 12,000kms in the
process. We went in to purchase a huge external aerial, brackets,
leads, etc. which will allow us to receive a stronger mobile and
internet connection. We haven't had either since arriving at Bush Beach
and have had the same problem at a lot of other places. We were able
to purchase most of the components with the exception of a cable for
Rick's Samsung phone. We tested all the connections when we got home
and it has boosted our signals, so hopefully I'll get some updates done
on the blog. The 'midgies' were around today ... they cause sores like
sandflies but we've been told they are different to sandflies. The
flies here are horrendous too, so while we were in town we bought
ourselves nets to fit onto our hats ... not very attractive, but
effective!
On Saturday morning, after looking at the
external aerial to see how best to install it, Rick decided that it
would need a slight modification, so he headed back into Carnarvon.
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Close up of the millions of shells on shell beach |
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Rick trying to count the shells |
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How the shells were quarried |
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Stromatolites at Hamelin Pool |
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Fishing in the late afternoon |
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Our campsite at Bush Beach |
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The fellow fishing in between the planks of the jetty |
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A couple of sunsets seen from our campsite |
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